BEYOND BEAUTY 2015 : WHAT’S AMAZING?
For years now, I visit the Beyond Beauty show because it reflects quite well various trends of the sector. South Korea is becoming more visible with multiple devices (Bomtech) and beauty care through the new cushion generation of products (e.g. Hidden foundation of Chochosfactory).
Mask experience confirms the trends with Timeless Truth or the Mask & powder kit (Lab & Company) that combines a mask + powder meant to be blended. From South Korea, it seems obvious that conglomerates such as LG are becoming major players, benefitting from the cross-fertilization of their various core businesses. LG launches through its brands Sooryehan / Jin brand a gel cleanser transforming into oil while face massaging.
Besides various natural-based brands, Lorcos is still there, showing all the personal care range of products, such as its historical solid shampoos. Very innovative and sustainable. Lush too develops bar shampoos and conditioners for the past few years, with noticeable success. One bar enables 80-100 shampoos, which is equivalent to 3 bottles of classical shampoo, meaning huge water saving… and convenience (mostly while traveling).
My favorite thing is to rummage into the new brands jungle on the Zoom area. A Japanese brand called Ruhaku displayed a very elegant range of products, based on an ancient plant that grows in Japan locally known as getto. It can prolong life by a fifth and might be the secret behind the long life people in Southern Japan. Tawada, a professor of agronomy at the University of the Ryukyus in Okinawa, has been studying getto, part of the ginger family known variously as Alpinia zerumbet, pink porcelain lily or shell ginger, for the last 20 years and he is now collecting the fruits of his work. The scientist made a recent experiment on worms and discovered that those fed on a daily diet of getto lived an average of 22.6 % longer than the control group.
The plant has been a main ingredient in the diet of Okinawans for centuries. While they did not know the plant is rich in resveratrol, a strong anti-oxidant that can also be found in grapes, they knew however that the plant was good for them, Tawada said. »Today, getto is used in cosmetics, but that’s only part of its potential I think it can also be used in the medical field and in other sectors, » he said.
(Picture: Alpinia zerumbet by Tatiana Gerus from Brisbane, Australia, Wikimedia commons)
On the Innovation Zone, displayed by Mintel, few surprises. An Ultimate warming cleanser from Sephora that shows how entertaining textures are still desirable, as well as formula-changing textures are, with the Dr Deniis Gross cleanser, the Brightening bubbling mask of Peter Thomas Roth, that transforms from a light blue gel to a white oxygenating foam, or the PowerMud dual cleanse treatment (Glamglow).
One of the big surprise though is the Struthio Derma brand with its Plume range of skincare. Based on French Ostrich oil, rich in essential fatty acids (omega 3, 6 and 9), it has been used since Egyptian and Greek-Roman civilizations to heal the skin and to reinforce the immune system.
Stemming from the fat of ostrich bred in the South of France near Cognac, it is a well-traced ingredient, sourced from a known and direct supplier. Not the fat present on the feathers, like lanolin on sheep hair, but the real fat of the animal. After purification, it is formulated. This is a good example of adding value to a byproduct, as we do in circular economy.
While the cosmetic industry in France is more focused on plant-based ingredient, it is interesting to find natural, renewable and sustainable new ingredients. Sustainable because these birds are bred in wide fields (they can’t be domesticated like chickens), fed with plants or grains (and not soya or weird pet food), and the number of animals are limited and remains well-managed. Many market though are still interested in animal-based ingredients, such as Switzerland, Russia, Asia…
(src : rougier-ple)
Moreover, the team is extremely welcoming, explaining each step, answering every question I had, and even share Cognac-based cocktails as appetizer on their booth.
Meanwhile, I was disappointed to see that that Spa area wasn’t there, and only very few cosmetic ingredient suppliers were present (Seppic and Prod’Hyg) while fragrance suppliers took larger place in the show.
I really look forward to coming back next year, to meet the next launching brands!
And you, what did you think of Beyond Beauty 2015?